House specialties exceed expectations at Glen Ellyn's fast-casual Chicks 'n Salsa

Tucked away at the far end of Glen Ellyn's Baker Hill Shopping Mall, next to the shuttered Dominick's, sits a gem in the fast-casual realm.

Heading into its 11th year of operation, Chicks 'n Salsa Mexican Grill advertises itself as a “heart-healthy restaurant” that “emphasizes quality, freshness and value.” Let me tell you — they deliver on all counts.

Before opening the restaurant, owner Cindy Degen, while still working in the corporate world, traveled the west coast of Mexico and picked up recipes that she now uses in her restaurant. And while working in San Diego, she witnessed the boom of the fish taco, which she incorporates in various forms on the menu.

Chicks 'n Salsa is an order-at-the-counter sit-down style of restaurant with a group of eager-to-please young staffers. After ordering from a wide range of traditional Mexican dishes and fire-grilled chicken, you can help yourself to the free complimentary salsa bar while waiting for your food to be brought to your table.

While wanting to try almost everything on the menu — including breakfast items served all day — we went with a few of the house specialties.

Signs touted the Baja fish taco as one of “Chicago's Best” (according to a local TV station). I'm not a big seafood eater, and the thought of a fish taco always put me off. But, I thought I should try it. We chose the crispy battered tilapia over the grilled version and were pleasantly surprised. The fish was light yet tasty and was complemented by a nice amount of cabbage, cucumber, cilantro and chipotle mayo.

We also tried the shrimp taco but were disappointed by its lack of flavor, even with a dose of the chipotle mayo salsa.

One taco not to miss — and one I will definitely reorder on future visits — was the chorizo taco. Normally, I've found chorizo to be too greasy and salty for my taste, but this one has the right amount of fat and salt. And it was huge on flavor.

Sticking with traditional Mexican entrees, we also tried a steak burrito. It had a nice combination of fresh-grilled steak strips, rice, beans, salsa, cheese and lettuce — and not a heap of lettuce like so many other places use to fill out the burrito. Another definite reorder on a future visit.

With all the tacos and burritos, you can choose a traditional flour tortilla or a low-carb wheat, spinach or tomato-basil tortilla.

The highlight of the evening was the fire-grilled chicken. We ordered the half-chicken dinner, which came with two sides and cornbread. This was one of the best-cooked chickens I've had in a long time. Even though the chicken, which marinates overnight, is cooked over an open flame, the chef manages to keep the entire bird tender and juicy. All parts, from the wings and legs to the thick breast, were cooked perfectly, and the blend of herbs and spices on the skin added a wonderful flavor that did not overwhelm the natural flavors of the chicken.

Don't pass up the Tex-Mex corn as a side: The blend of corn and black beans meld together for a perfect flavor.

Chicks 'n Salsa offers a few simple desserts, including tres leches cake and fried ice cream. But don't pass on the very simple yet oh-so delicious churros. Just the right amount of cinnamon on these warm, chewy sticks is satisfying. And a dipping sauce of either chocolate, strawberry or custard makes them even better.

If you're looking for a step above the regular fast food/take-out place, Chicks 'n Salsa offers great value and high-quality food in a clean, comfortable atmosphere.

• Restaurant reviews are based on one anonymous visit. The Daily Herald does not publish reviews of restaurants it cannot recommend.

Chicks 'n Salsa Mexican Grill

Baker Hill Shopping Center, 874 Roosevelt Road, Glen Ellyn, (630) 790-1100, <a href="http://www.chicksnsalsa.com">chicksnsalsa.com</a>

<b>Cuisine:</b> Traditional Mexican dishes and fresh-grilled chicken

<b>Setting:</b> Simple, no-frills counter-service restaurant with 12-14 four-seat tables

<b>Entrees:</b> Breakfast: $3.99 to $8.99; entrees: $2.99 to $9.25

<b>Hours:</b> 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Friday; 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Saturday; 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Sunday