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Grilling whole birds takes a bit of prep work

Burgers, brats and boneless chicken breasts are among the first foods tackled by home cooks getting acquainted with their backyard grills. But as they become more confident, grillers find themselves hungry for bigger and more enticing thrills.

Simply put, it's time to graduate to the next level: cooking whole birds - large or small - on the barbecue.

Dan Wall, executive chef at Weber Grill Restaurant in Lombard for more than five years, suggests grilling a whole turkey, noting that there are no secrets to grilling; It's all a learning process.

"I recommend approaching the butcher or someone in the meat department where you shop and ask about getting the best bird possible," said Wall. Though he favors working with a fresh turkey, Wall said the main thing about using one that's frozen is to properly (read: "fully") thaw it.

A 12-pound turkey, brined overnight in a refrigerator with kosher salt and a little apple cider, should be ample for eight to 10 diners.

Wall uses a kettle grill fueled by charcoal divided into two cooking zones with the center of the grill kept free of coals. On the grill grate, he positions a drip pan and adds onions, carrots, celery, rosemary, thyme, sage and chicken broth. He then cooks the turkey, breast side down, in that pan with the aromatics and liquid.

He cooks it until the breast reaches 165 degrees and the legs 185 degrees, which should occur about the same time.

"For even browning, after about an hour has elapsed, turn the turkey upside down," Wall said. "At the same time add six to eight charcoal briquettes to each of the two cooking zones in order to maintain a temperature between 350 and 400 degrees Fahrenheit."

Those using natural gas-fired grills should strive to follow the same temperature guidance.

Basting while cooking the turkey is a matter of personal preference. Wall's method, in which the turkey is partly immersed in liquid, eliminates the need for basting. Once the cooking is complete, he advises removing the turkey from the grill and letting it rest about 15 minutes before carving.

For a variation, cooks can add soaked wood chips such as hickory to the coals to impart a smoky flavor to the turkey.

Wall cites words of wisdom once shared by a corporate chef: "If you're looking, you're not cooking." Leaving the grill lid off or popping it open to check on progress are mistakes many neophytes make. "All you're doing in that situation is losing temperature. So the best advice is no peeking unless you're adding fuel to the fire," Wall added.

Michael Lachowicz, chef-owner of Restaurant Michael in Winnetka, enjoys cooking birds of a different feather. While quail are on the restaurant menu, stuffed with black truffles and foie gras, Lachowicz says he often grills them at home as well.

Lachowicz orders them online and prefers jumbo quail that are three to four ounces when deboned. He recommends getting them semi-boneless, with only the wing and leg bones left intact. Roast a fully boned quail and you will end up with little edible meat, he said.

"Because they are small and very delicate birds, I don't brine them," the chef said. Rather, he relies on an unconventional marinade that won't permeate the bird but perfumes its skin. He recommends an oil-based marinade but not olive oil, which is too fruity and overpowering. Instead, he opts for canola oil along with a variety of herbs and spices: thyme, bay leaf, peppercorn and crushed garlic cloves. The quail bathe in that mixture in the fridge overnight or up to 48 hours.

Lachowicz uses a charcoal or wood-fired grill and leaves the lid open. Once the quail are pulled from their marinade, he recommends making sure all the herbs are removed and the birds are patted dry on a clean towel to avoid flare-ups. Cooking time is about three to five minutes on each side over a direct flame. Remove the quail to a pie pan, cover and rest for five to seven minutes before serving.

Both Lachowicz and Wall advise against using lighting fluid, which imparts a chemical flavor to the food.

Two other birds Lachowicz finds suitable for the grill are Cornish hens and Poussin, also known as spring chicken. "They will take a little longer and require indirect heat because their bones are intact, which is the best way to prepare them while maintaining their internal moisture," he said.

Herb-Roasted Chicken with Zucchini and Peppers

Step up your grilling game with Apple-Smoked Turkey with Applejack Gravy. Courtesy of Weber
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