Texas Smoked Brisket

1 whole brisket (8-10 pounds), with fat cap

3-5 tablespoons kosher salt

3-5 tablespoons coarsely ground black pepper

If you're using a smoker, start a charcoal fire in the firebox.

If you're using a charcoal grill, prepare the grill for indirect grilling: Light the charcoal in a chimney starter and let the briquettes burn until the flames subside and a light layer of ash covers the briquettes (about 20 to 25 minutes). Dump the lighted coals into 2 mounds (or, preferably, into 2 half-moon-shaped briquette baskets) on opposite sides of the grill. Place a drip pan between the piles of coals and fill it a quarter of way with water.

Trim the fat on the brisket to between ⅛ and ¼ inch thick. Season the brisket liberally with salt and pepper (to taste), so the meat is well coated and textured.

To cook in the smoker: When the coals turn ashen, open the chimney completely and add 2 split logs or 6 hardwood chunks. Let them burn for about 10 minutes or until they start to flame for a couple of minutes; close the firebox door. When the logs or hardwood chunks start smoldering and smoking, about another 10 minutes or so when the thermometer reads 225 degrees, set the brisket on the grate in the cooking chamber, as far from the fire as possible. Close the chamber door; close the chimney one-half to three-quarters of the way; adjust to maintain the temperature inside the smoker between 225 and 275 degrees. Add two logs or 6 hardwood chunks as needed after about 2 hours. Smoke between 1 hour and 90 minutes per pound (timing may depend on brisket thickness, weather conditions), making sure to keep the fire as steady as possible. If the fire gets too hot (325 degrees or higher), close the chimney completely until the temperature falls to about 250 degrees. If the fire falls below 225 degrees, add another log or two, and make sure it catches fire before you close the firebox.

To cook in the grill: When the grill is set up as directed above and the coals are ashen, place 2 or 3 hardwood chunks on the coals, place the grill rack in position and cover the grill. When the hardwood chunks start to smoke, place the brisket on the grill rack above the drip pan. Maintain the temperature inside the grill between 250 and 300 degrees. Cook for 30-45 minutes per pound; add charcoal and hardwood chunks as needed. The brisket is done when a meat thermometer registers between 190 and 195 degrees when inserted into the thick end of the meat.

Lay a large piece of aluminum foil on a clean work surface. Transfer the brisket to the foil; wrap the meat in the foil. Place the wrapped brisket in a room-temperature cooler; cover with a couple of towels (for insulation). Let it rest for at least 1 hour, and up to 3 hours, before slicing against the grain.

Serves 14 to 16.

Nutrition values per serving: 330 calories, 15 g fat (6 g saturated), 0 carbohydrates, 0 fiber, 0 sugar, 45 g protein, 140 mg cholesterol, 1,190 mg sodium.

Jim Shahin for the Washington Post