Good wine: Chicago couple making international wines
The barrel was enology's breakout technology circa 27 B.C., providing a sturdy container to transport wine throughout the known universe (i.e. the Roman Empire).
Today, the technology having the greatest impact on wine is the airplane that transports not wine but the winemakers.
Not too long ago, the winemaker's life was a short one, with one chance each year to perfectly express the characteristics of that vintage. Even those lucky or long-lived might have only 30 or so chances to get it right.
Now, winemakers can wrap up autumn harvest in the northern hemisphere and jump a flight in time to catch vineyards flowering in springtime south of the equator. The airplane has become winemakers' Time Machine, in effect doubling their professional life.
Midwest natives Michael and Jenn Kush are two "flying winemakers" who, at the ripe young age of 40 each have 23 vintages under their belt.
The couple met at Purdue University in Lafayette, Indiana, where Michael studied engineering. When a trip to California sealed their love of wine, they grabbed their passports and backpacks to chase the harvest from South Africa to the U.S., Germany to Argentina, learning the winemaker's craft by working in vineyards and wineries across five continents.
In 2007, they allied with winegrowers in Portugal and New Zealand, purchasing fruit to establish their own Chasing Harvest label.
In all the world, how did the Kushes decide on these two regions?
"Portugal is one of the world's most ancient winegrowing regions," Michael explains, "and New Zealand is brand new. Besides, we wanted the midpoint between vineyards to be home."
Home happens to be Chicago.
Now Michael and Jenn spend four to five months in New Zealand's Central Otago, stop in Chicago for a sandwich and Bluesfest, then finish their year in Portugal's Douro Valley.
Portugal became the world's first international wine region in the 1700s, when Port wine - fortified for long journeys with a dose of brandy - sailed with the English fleet throughout the known world (i.e., the British Empire.)
Portugal still champions their ancient traditions and indigenous grape varieties including Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz.
Chasing Harvest's Vinho Tinto is sourced from 100-year old Duoro vineyards, farmed for five generations by the Miguel Morais family, for a chewy red, with rich cherry, chocolate and spice complexities, to pair with meats, poultry and grilled veggies.
"Douro is a UNESCO heritage site and incredibly beautiful," remarks Michael. "There's also an incredible exchange of ideas; Jenn and I find that people are happy to see an American and hear our point of view."
In New Zealand, the Kushes may be the only Chicagoans, but plenty of Americans add to the country's international mix.
"The pioneers that planted the original vineyards are still working, still able to share their experience," Michael reports. "The industry is so alive and fluid; there are only one or two degrees of separation between winemakers from around the world who have worked there."
New Zealand's profit locomotive is Sauvignon Blanc, but Pinot Noir has attracted an international following.
Of course, no discussion of Pinot Noir is complete without reference to Burgundy, the grape's homeland.
"Well, we strive to create a link to Burgundy," Michael says.
This Burgundy devotee appreciates Michael's humility. So far, Burgundy is unique for balancing Pinot's power and finesse.
For a new perspective on Pinot, wine lovers may enjoy Chasing Harvest Pinot Noir's spicy cherry and beet flavors, lithe texture and long, savory finish, a good complement to grilled salmon and light meats.
The Chasing Harvest label highlights each destination the Kushes have sought to work and develop their winemaking craft.
"The journey has always been part of the adventure," says Michael.
The label is getting crowded as the couple's journey continues, not currently throughout the known universe, but certainly throughout Planet Earth, all via Chicago.
• Write to Advanced Sommelier and Certified Wine Educator Mary Ross at food@dailyherald.com.