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Solo in downtown Elgin trying to get contemporary wine bar off the ground

With its high-quality American fare, contemporary decor and well-trained wait staff, newcomer Solo has made a good start at contributing a much-needed spark to the dining scene in downtown Elgin.

Proprietors Frank and Renae Ferru, a husband-and-wife team, can take pride in what they have accomplished so far with their restaurant and wine bar, which opened in late November. Still, there's a little work to do to sustain the early momentum.

Raising visibility of the establishment needs to be addressed. Visitors currently won't find any significant signage informing them that they have arrived at the right place. In fact, there's only a small arrow on a door at the front of the building feebly directing customers to enter the premises via an adjoining entrance next door that also leads to an unaffiliated Thai-Chinese restaurant.

Solo's wine list and a la carte menu continue to evolve. The general concept involves offering six to eight small-plate dishes and a like number of so-called larger plates. It's a tidy menu suitable for a space whose main dining room seat 50 and bar area 20. In addition, there's space for private parties.

The kitchen turns out pizzettes (tiny pizzas) topped with prosciutto, fontanella and tomato; beef tenderloin tartare; grilled baby octopus, and escargot in puff pastry. It also offers a charcuterie small plate ($11) with soppressata, prosciutto, salame, aged Wisconsin cheese and grilled flat bread.

It gets creative with Walden Salad ($7) where mixed greens keep company with figs, candied walnuts, tart apples and crumbled blue cheese — the whole works dressed in a prosecco vinaigrette.

A cup of the soup of the day, a flavorful duck confit, started my dinner. This creamy version came in a small cast-iron pot which looked good and at the same time managed to retain the soup's warmth.

For her main course, my dining partner delighted in one of Solo's most popular “larger plate” options. Three sizable cumin-crusted sea scallops, artfully topped by a kiwi salsa, were accompanied by a taste of jalapeno lime-red cabbage coleslaw and a mix of black beans and rice. Because of market fluctuations that affect the scallop supply, this item won't appear on the printed menu, but will be offered whenever it's available.

I had a regret about the rack-of-lamb special, but it didn't relate to the excellent quality of the meat or its flawless grilling. The accompaniments to this $24 dish — four lonely green beans and the dab of caramelized onions — were disappointingly sparse, no more than garnishes.

Ideally, Solo won't take too long to spring for a few more beans or at least start offering optional side dishes.

Desserts change frequently. The night of my visit I enjoyed the Chocolate Crunch, a lovely, satisfying frozen chocolate mousse-like confection topped with a crème anglaise. Also sampled was the house-made apple tart paired with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. Delicious.

Solo's eclectic wines, with many available by the glass, include domestics as well as imports from Italy, France, Spain and South Africa.

Ferru's prior experience in food service includes co-ownership of L'Eiffel Bistro in South Barrington and an interest in La Petite Creperie in Woodstock. His wife's talent as an interior designer is reflected in the warm feel created by exposed brick and deconstructed concrete. Strategically placed shelves on one wall artfully display various-sized glass bottles; elsewhere are intriguing photos, the subject matter of which jumps from a secretarial pool from the 1950s to giant mechanical gears.

The restaurant accepts reservations, and there's plenty of convenient parking on the street or at nearby municipal lots.

• Restaurant reviews are based on one anonymous visit. The Daily Herald does not publish reviews of restaurants it cannot recommend.

  Prosecco vinaigrette and figs dress up Solo's Walden Salad. Brian Hill/bhill@dailyherald.com
  Solo offers a variety of tiny pizzas, aka pizzettes, on its small plates menu. Brian Hill/bhill@dailyherald.com
  The lamb chops come perfect grilled at Solo in Elgin, but a few ore vegetables would be a welcome addition to the plate. Brian Hill/bhill@dailyherald.com
  Exposed brick and industrial-themed photos give Solo in Elgin an urban feel. Brian Hill/bhill@dailyherald.com

Solo

13 Douglas Ave., Elgin, (847) 622-7656, <a href="http://www.soloelgin.com/">soloelgin.com</a>

<b>Cuisine:</b> Contemporary American

<b>Setting:</b> Casual restaurant and wine bar with an urban vibe

<b>Small plates:</b> $8 to $11; larger plates $18 to $24; desserts $8 to $9

<b>Hours:</b> Lunch 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday; dinner 5 to 9 p.m. Sunday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday; 5 to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Closed Monday.

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