Leave fallen leaves on shrubs, perennials

Q. With the cold weather upon us, I still have many fallen leaves on my yard and bushes. Is it necessary to remove them?

A. There is no reason to clear off fallen leaves from shrubs and perennials in the fall. Nature usually does its business and breaks down the leaves and feeds the soil. Leaves are also an excellent compost. In addition, allowing leaves to remain over winter can prove beneficial to native wildlife. The dead and decomposing plant matter on the ground provide insects with a cozy place to bed down for the winter, and emerge in the spring very hungry and in the mood for love.

Spiky dead flower heads, such as Cup Plant (Silphium perfoliatum) and purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) provide seeds for many wintering birds, such as goldfinches.

However, if leaves are diseased, for example, with black spots, you should remove them. Also, remove any thick layer of leaves on your lawn, as this could cause rot.

Q. How should I take care of a potted azalea?

A. You can often find potted blooming azaleas for sale around the December holidays. These are evergreen azaleas, usually hardy in USDA Zones 8-10. These azaleas have been grown in a greenhouse and forced into bloom at the desired time of year.

To care for an azalea indoors, place the potted azalea in a bright position, but out of direct sun. Make sure its potting mix stays moist but not soggy.

The azalea is happiest in relatively cool temperatures - in the 50s at night and not above 68 degrees during the day. To provide those cool nighttime temperatures, you may opt to move the azalea to an enclosed porch or unheated room at night.

After the azalea is finished blooming, you can repot it into a container one size bigger. Keep caring for it as outlined above. You can move the pot outdoors once the threat of frost has passed in the spring. Keep the azalea in a partly shaded location and check it often for dryness as the pot will likely dry out quickly. Move it back indoors before the first frost of fall. Will it bloom again next year? Unfortunately, this can be tricky. The azalea needs about six weeks of nighttime temperatures between 40 and 55 degrees to form buds. Also, if the air is dry, the flower buds may be deformed.

Q. This summer I had several beautiful geraniums that I would like to keep for next year. I've heard that is possible; how do I save them indoors?

A. There are several ways to save geraniums: store plants as bare roots, pot the plants and take cuttings. Gardeners have success with these methods but there is no assurance that any or all of the plants will survive. Trying to save geraniums is an interesting indoor winter gardening activity/experiment. Whatever method you choose, make sure you have vigorous healthy plants that are insect and disease free.

Storing plants as bare roots

The easiest way to overwinter geraniums is to store them as bare roots, but it is also the least successful.

In fall before the first hard frost, dig the plants and gently remove clods of dirt; roots do not need to be clean. Hang the plants upside-down in basement, garage, or dry crawl space where temperatures 45-55 degrees. Once a month soak the roots in water for one hour and rehang the plant. Plants will lose their leaves but the stems will stay alive for planting again next spring.

Potting the plants

After choosing the plants you intend to keep, prune them back by half and remove unattractive/diseased stems. If you have the plants in 6-8 inch pots you can leave them in the pots making sure there are no insects lurking in the soil. To avoid soil insects, repot the plants in 6-8 inches pots using fresh potting soil. If the plants are in larger pots or in the ground, carefully dig them up and plant in 6-8 inch pots as described. Water thoroughly and place under fluorescent lights or in a bright south window so they receive 10-12 hours of sunlight a day. Geraniums can tolerate arid conditions. They overwinter best in temperatures from 60-70 degrees with infrequent watering. They will become "leggy" if they are kept in warmer temperatures.

Taking cuttings

• Supplies needed: Vermiculite, perlite, or sand dampened with water; small planting containers with drain holes at least 2 inches deep; rooting hormone.

Before a hard frost, take cuttings from your plants. Each cutting should be a thick stem about 4 inches long. Take a few more cutting than needed since some cuttings may not take root.

Remove all flowers and buds, except for four leaves from terminal end.

Place the cuttings on a surface for 10-12 hours so a callous forms on the cut stem. This helps prevent root rot.

Place the growing medium into the containers and make holes in medium so rooting hormone remains on cutting when it is planted.

Dip the stem into rooting hormone up to the leaves and place into planting hole to just below the leaves. Water thoroughly and place into bright window or under fluorescent lights. Keep growing medium moist but not wet.

Cuttings should take root in four to eight weeks. When rooted, repot into 3-4 inch pots and grow under fluorescent lights or bright light until ready to plant in spring.

• Provided by Mary Boldan. Master Gardener Answer Desk, Friendship Park Conservatory, Des Plaines, open 9 a.m. to noon on Wednesday. Call (847) 298-3502 or email Cookcountymg.com@gmail.com.