Consider windbreaks to protect evergreens

Q. Last spring I found a lot of brown needles on my evergreens. I think it was a type of "winter burn" due to strong cold winds. How can I prepare my evergreens to avoid that problem this year?

A. It sounds as if your evergreen needles were damaged during the severe winter. Cold winter winds and sun can quickly desiccate (dry out) evergreens. It is particularly important that all evergreens (needle and broadleaf) are well watered before freezing temperatures. On broadleaf evergreens such as holly, boxwood, and rhododendron, you will find browned foliage if the plants suffered winter damage.

While evergreens must be protected from cold, dry winter winds, they do need access to light and air during the winter. You can protect low-growing needle and broadleaf evergreens by creating a windbreak of burlap or canvas around an individual plant. Before it freezes, select stakes about two feet taller than the shrub, and pound them into the ground around the evergreen. Once the ground begins to freeze, nail or staple the canvas/burlap to the stakes and surround the entire shrub. If you have a group of evergreens too large for individual windbreaks, you can position one large windbreak to protect the plants from strong prevailing NW/W/SW winds.

Making windbreaks each year can be time-consuming. Therefore, if you plan on planting new evergreens, consider the locations of existing windbreaks such as a house, garage, fences, walls or other objects that block wind. To protect the new evergreens from NW/W/SW winds, plant them in areas protected by these windbreaks.

Q. How can I grow narcissus bulbs indoors?

A. Paperwhite narcissus are good choice for forcing indoors since they don't require the chilling period like most other bulbs.

Place the narcissus bulbs, pointed side up, in a shallow pot filled two thirds full with marbles, polished stones or pebbles. Make sure the bottom of the bulb is deep enough so it comes in contact with the water. Pour water over the stones or other media just enough to moisten them, as well as the bottom of the bulb. You do not want to submerge the bulb in water; otherwise, it will rot.

Put the pot in a cool dark room for about a week to encourage roots to develop. When green shoots appear, move the bulb into a filtered sunny location. Keep the temperatures cool during forcing. In about three more weeks, fragrant clusters of flowers will appear.

Paperwhites last longer when temperatures are no warmer than 65 degrees F. If it's too warm, they'll grow quickly and become floppy. To keep them standing tall, you can either support them with sticks and twine, or give them a little drink of alcohol. Research conducted by William B. Miller, Professor of Horticulture and Director of Cornell's Flowerbulb Research Program shows that when the shoots are about two inches tall, replacing their water supply with a solution of alcohol and water results in stems that are one-third to one-half shorter than normal. The size of the blooms and their blooming period are not affected.

To apply this solution, siphon out the water currently in the pot using a tool such as a turkey baster. You need a solution that is about 5 percent alcohol. Proportion is very important. If you add too little, there is no effect; if you add too much, you will kill the bulbs. To achieve this proportion, use isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) with water mixed at one part alcohol to ten parts water. Or, use the real stuff, such as gin, vodka, or whiskey (typically 40% distilled spirit). Mix together one part liquor and seven parts water to make a 5% solution.

Typically, bulbs that are forced indoors should not be planted again. However, you may get lucky, and have blooms next season.

• Provided by Mary Boldan. Master Gardener Answer Desk, Friendship Park Conservatory, Des Plaines, open 9 a.m. to noon on Wednesday. Call (847) 298-3502 or email Cookcountymg.com@gmail.com.