Thanksgiving: When to save, where to splurge

Thanksgiving is the holiday of sanctioned indulgence, but that doesn’t mean the meal has to break the bank. Strategic splurging can keep your budget — and your time — under control.

“The elements of Thanksgiving in general are relatively inexpensive,” says Melissa D’Arabian, cookbook author and host of the FoodNetwork.com web series “The Picky Eaters Project.” Items like potatoes, bread for stuffing, and even the turkey are pennies per pound. “But even inexpensive things can become expensive if you’re making it for a lot of people and if you don’t shop well.”

Knowing which items to go big on depends on your menu, your skills and your family and friends.

“The trick to this is know your audience,” says Rick Rodgers, author of numerous Thanksgiving cookbooks, including “Thanksgiving 101.” “If you have foodie friends who really enjoy discussing a meal, then maybe you do want the $100 organic turkey. It’s the same thing with the wine. If people are going to notice that you have a $50 pinot noir, go for it. But if they are average Joes, then cook for them, not for you.”

Here’s a little more guidance from the experts.

Turkey: Splurge on preparation, save on the bird.

Many people have ethical and environmental reasons for buying a heritage, free range or other high-end bird. But if your only consideration is taste, many experts say even the frozen supermarket bird will suffice if you brine it and brown it.

“The ecologist in me says buy a heritage breed turkey,” says Sarah Copeland, food director for Real Simple magazine. “But if you treat your turkey right, even a Butterball can be delicious.”

Stuffing: Splurge on the produce, save on the bread.

Stuffing was meant to be cheap. Its job is simply to soak up all the lovely juices from your bird. An ordinary loaf of white bread or baguette will do this just fine — Rodgers even likes the prepackaged bread cubes — but load up on fresh herbs, crisp celery and flavorful extras like excellent mushrooms.

“If you can get higher-end mushrooms, that’s going to elevate your stuffing into something really special,” D’Arabian says. A bit of minced shallot will add sweetness and depth. “Having high-end stuffing versus run-of-the-mill is worth a few extra bucks. In a lot of people’s hearts, the stuffing is the star of the show, so that’s a good place to splurge.”

Mashed potatoes: Splurge on the cream, save on the spuds.

Starchy russets are your best bet for everyone’s favorite side because they soak up whatever flavors you throw at them. The 10-pound bag at Costco will do the job just as well as farmers market potatoes at four times the price. But using heavy cream instead of milk will make those potatoes silky and rich.

“There’s nothing like heavy cream in mashed potatoes, and it’s such an indulgence,” D’Arabian says. Leftover cream can be whipped for dessert.

Another splurge? A little fleur de sel or other crunchy finishing salt for the top.

Sweet potatoes: Splurge on fresh potatoes, save on the marshmallows.

When it comes to sweet potatoes, skip the can. Fresh sweet potatoes are inexpensive, come in beautiful, meal-enhancing colors like orange, yellow and purple, and require little effort to cook. They can be roasted simply in the skins and topped with butter and herbs, or they can be candied, scalloped or turned into a souffle. Where to save?

“Save money on the marshmallows,” says Mary Risley, director of Tante Marie’s Cooking School in San Francisco. “They’re not food.”

Green bean casserole: Just don’t.

It’s a recipe that started on the back of a can, and many food folks say that’s where it should stay.

“I get that it takes a green bean casserole to scratch the green bean casserole itch,” D’Arabian says. “Any attempt to elevate the green bean casserole does not scratch the itch. Do not elevate. Go with your classic recipe.” If it’s not an itch your family has, upscale your green vegetable by sauteing fresh, shaved brussels sprouts in excellent bacon.

Pie: Splurge on the crust (and the cream), save on the filling.

When it comes to pie crust, go all-butter or go home. And don’t even bother with pre-made crust or dough.

“There are very few pre-made crusts on the market that taste and feel as good as a real butter crust,” says Real Simple’s Copeland. But the filling is a different story. Why bother roasting and breaking down a fresh pumpkin when canned pumpkin consistently delivers great texture and flavor? “Canned pumpkin is a wonderful invention,” Copeland says.

As with the crust, pre-made toppings don’t even come close to the real thing — which requires almost no effort to make. “It’s amazing how a simple thing like homemade whipped cream as opposed to a defrosted whipped topping can elevate a dessert,” Rodgers says.