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The air above the Silfra rift in Iceland was freezing and the water in it was only a couple degrees higher, just warm enough to be liquid. Going under was a small shock to the skin — but stunning to the eyes. The weak light of a grayish Icelandic winter day transformed into an intense glow of blues and greens, offset by brown and golden sand and rocks. From above, Silfra is just a dull ditch between dark chunks of lava; from below, an extravagant, eerie maze.