About this Article
I came to Italy to test a French adage by way of an American writer, Mark Twain. The more things change, the more they remain the same. The saying had been on my mind while traveling before, usually with a book from the past clutched in my hands. Now came another test: travel through northern Italy with a copy of Twain's 1869 "The Innocents Abroad," his irreverent "record of a pleasure trip" to Paris, the Mediterranean and Jerusalem.