Algonquin's where it's @ for fine Thai
Lovers of Thai curries and Japanese sushi don't have to go to separate restaurants to enjoy both Asian specialties if they know about @Bangkok Thai & Sushi. This strip-mall spot in Algonquin excels on all levels: food, service and ambience
Owners San Phounsavat and Simon Lundie, who opened the restaurant in 2008, are putting the finishing touches on a remodel that includes installation of a bar, as well as seating along the sushi bar so guests can watch sushi chefs at work.
The recent facelift gives the eatery a sophisticated and subdued look, with chocolate brown and olive green walls, black leather upholstery and black linens. The new bar gives the restaurant a more upscale feel than it had previously and is a welcome addition.
Vintage rock 'n' roll and soul music playing in the background further illustrates how far Asian restaurants have come since the old days when mom-and-pop places made Americans feel like foreigners. Our waiter also made us feel right at home.
Table settings include both chopsticks and flatware, which I took as a good sign that the owner is aware that many Americans know how to use chopsticks. Low-sodium soy sauce in addition to the regular salty kind also appeared without having to ask.
The menu has a serious sushi section, along with a Thai section of the classics, such as Thai spring rolls, chicken satay, tom yum soup, pad thai and several curries. Some entrees listed under the Thai designation seem to be more Chinese than Thai - cashew chicken, pepper steak and fried rice, for example - but Phounsavat insists their Thai seasonings, such as chili paste, distinguish them from Chinese versions.
Beginning with sushi, I sampled three kinds, finding the spicy tuna roll to be my favorite. The tuna was finely chopped and full-flavored with a house-made sauce and sesame oil, with the seaweed wrapper on the outside. The fish tasted very fresh and did not need any wasabi to spice it up.
The plain salmon roll and the Philadelphia roll, which also contained avocado and cream cheese, were good as well, although drier with rice on the outside. The salmon was excellent in both, but I'd suggest that the menu somehow distinguish which rolls have the wrapper on the outside and which ones have sushi rice on the outside, if you have a preference. Phounsavat suggests that guests tell their servers which style they like better, and sushi chefs will oblige.
From the Thai/Chinese appetizer list, I chose steamed pork-stuffed pot stickers. The ground pork was flavorful and not greasy. The won ton wrapper proved a good foil to absorb the heat from the spicy tuna roll.
A cup of miso soup from the Japanese side satisfied, especially since it was not overly salted, as sometimes happens elsewhere.
Although I easily could have gone home happy at this point, I gamely ordered a red curry with chicken from the Thai side. This mildly spicy dish with coconut milk, red and green bell pepper strips, bamboo shoots and basil leaf and, of course, white rice, proved to be a pleasing choice.
Two other curries are offered - Panang, described by our server as more spicy than the red curry, and Massaman, a kind of Thai beef stew with potatoes, carrots, onions and peanuts. Most entrees can be ordered with a choice of beef, chicken or tofu; shrimp costs $2 extra.
Thai and Japanese cuisines are not known for desserts, although many Asian restaurants serve some interesting fruits and ice creams. On the day we visited, only fried cheesecake was available, so we opted out. Phounsavat says his staff is too busy to make desserts.
Green tea was our beverage of choice and hit the spot. A tight selection of wine and sake also is available. There is no children's menu.
Finding an Asian restaurant this good so far from Chicago was a delightful surprise. Fans of Thai food and sushi won't be disappointed.
Ÿ <i>Restaurant reviews are based on one anonymous visit. The Daily Herald does not review restaurants it cannot recommend.</i>
@Bangkok Thai & Sushi
4077 W. Algonquin Road, Algonquin, (224) 569-3999,
Cuisine: Japanese, Thai
Setting: Contemporary with Asian accents
Entrees: $9.95 to $23.95
Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 4:30 to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday; 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 4:30 to 10 p.m. Friday; 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Saturday; noon to 9 p.m. Sunday