Chef returns to Midwest roots
Justin Perdue has come a long way from the Wisconsin supper clubs he grew up with.
Perdue left a post-high school construction job in Algoma on Wisconsin's Door County peninsula to attend the French Culinary Institute in New York. There, he learned how to construct boldly balanced, globally influenced dishes based on classic techniques.
After graduating he put in time at Bar Americain, one of Food Network celebrity chef Bobby Flay's New York spots, before returning to the Midwest.
In Chicago he built his resume at Rick Bayless' Topolobampo, Old Town Brasserie and Sixteen at the Trump International Hotel and Tower. In 2011 he took over the culinary program at LM Restaurant, a contemporary French bistro in Chicago's Lincoln Park.
Now 31, he lives in Des Plaines with his wife, Serena, the chef at Niche in Geneva, and their dog Mavis.
When did you first realize you wanted to me a chef? When I was growing up I was always cooking something. I loved watching great chefs of the world. After high school I didn't know what I wanted to do, I was working construction and my best friend said “Dude, why don't you go to culinary school you love cooking?” So I did.
What was your first restaurant job? I worked at a country club in Wisconsin. I learned a lot of basic stuff, but being in a small town in Wisconsin everything I learned was pretty much useless besides basic knife skills.
You've worked at some prestigious restaurants. Any lessons you learned from chefs along the way? I have learned a lot from every chef I have worked for. From chefs like Bobby flay and Rick Bayless I learned how to make killer fish tacos, or how to make a proper mole. When I worked with Roland (Liccioni) I learned how to be humble, and I learned the hard way that I had to earn knowledge and technique.
When I worked at NoMi I learned a solid foundation for cooking — from the way to stand while prepping to how to properly clean a artichoke. It's hard to find a kitchen (except the top restaurants in Chicago) these days that is that strict in way everything is done.
Chef Frank Brunacci (Sixteen) is the one who took everything I learned, and showed me how to put it on a plate. He taught me how to create dishes, how flavors should taste and the best way to bring flavors out, but mostly he taught me what it means to be a chef.
What is your culinary philosophy? While working at Sixteen I learned to cook with my senses. Every dish must contain: sweet, sour/acid, crunchy/texture and salty. At LM every dish must contain those elements.
What three ingredients should every home cook have on hand? Banyuls vinegar: I use this in everything; it is a great vinegar for multiple uses from vinaigrettes to finishing meat. Butter: Do I really need to tell you why? Fresh herbs: Herbs can be used in any dish with any ingredients; dried herbs are useless.
What was the last meal you cooked at home? We helped cook Christmas dinner at my wife's parent's house.
What are the challenges/advantages of having a spouse in the same line of work? Challenges: we never see each other; we can go weeks without having a day off together.
Advantages: We're both more understanding of the hours and stress that is involved with working in the restaurant industry.
Do you have a guilty pleasure food? I love gummy candy and I love Starbucks before work.
Is there a food you can't stomach? Not a huge fan of blue cheese. I don't know why; I love really sharp cheddars and other cheeses but I just don't like blue cheese
Do you have any favorite Wisconsin-made foods? I love sharp cheddar, any sharp cheddar from Wisconsin; I probably eat too much cheese. And Spotted Cow is a great beer from (New Glarus) Wisconsin.
What do you do in your spare time? I have been remodeling my basement … that keeps me busy.
Tell us about the recipe: Pea Soup. I love pea soup, it's easy to make at home and easy to impress guests with because of its vibrant flavor and color. Also I find it to better to use frozen peas than fresh because fresh peas can be starchy.
Try this at home or at LM Restaurant, 4539 N. Lincoln Ave., Chicago. (773) 942-7585.
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