Gelato spots drawing business in suburbs

Violeta Karalis just can't find the words to describe how gelato tastes.

The first time she tried it, she was in Italy on vacation. She even remembers the flavor — hazelnut. But when asked to describe its taste, the Lisle resident finds it hard to put a sentence together. “It was … smooth,” she says, her eyes widening excitedly. “It's just …” she trails off, a dreamy smile across her face.

Gelato, apparently, elicits that kind of reaction — especially for those trying it for the first time, fans say. The frozen Italian dessert is gaining popularity in the United States, and suburban gelato lovers have noticed it's become easier to find the creamy treat close to home.

Though it resembles ice cream, gelato differs in a few key ways: Unlike its counterpart, it contains very little air, resulting in a richer, creamier flavor. It also has fewer calories and less fat than traditional ice cream.

“It's got that ‘wow' factor,” says Chris Pitaro, general manager of Gelati of Naperville. “It doesn't ice out the taste buds as much, and the first bite is as good as the last.”

“We've got a one-two punch,” adds Amanda Balk, manager of Via Gelato and Café in Glenview. “Gelato is better tasting and better for you.”

Mention gelato, and it gets a reaction. Often, it's curiosity. As it's still newer in the United States, customers ask about it all the time. Store workers say educating is part of the job and they love seeing people try it for the first time.

“They're always like, ‘Oh my gosh, this is great! I've never had anything like it!'” says Angela Ventrella, owner of Il Giardino del Dolce in St. Charles.

Gelato also evokes fond memories, usually of vacations in Italy. For many, the dessert has a natural connection with happy memories, and fans are eager to share their tasting stories. “It's half the fun of the job, talking to people about their experiences,” Balk says.

The sentiment and nostalgia that the dessert evokes are part of its allure — and why fans get so quickly hooked. “Gelato is first for the eyes, then for the soul and then for the palate,” Pitaro says. “It's a passion product.”

It's the nature of gelato to experiment with flavors, store workers say. Because Gelati makes gelato fresh from scratch daily, managers have the flexibility to experiment. The store offers traditional flavors, like strawberry and chocolate, but also peanut butter and jelly and mocha caramel.

“It's in the gelato spirit to be creative and exotic,” Pitaro says. “If you can dream (a flavor), we can do it. We encourage sampling. Our philosophy is if you try it, you'll come back.”

Not every flavor's a hit — sesame seed didn't go over great, but a Whopper flavor, made with malted milk balls, was a surprise. “People went crazy for that,” he says.

Flavors can be adjusted for the season — apple cider or pumpkin for fall, peppermint and eggnog for winter and fruits for spring and summer. Suburban makers have tried many different flavors, from bacon and avocado to popcorn and balsamic vinegar.

Although sampling's common, sizes are available for the bigger eater. Geneva's All Chocolate Kitchen, for example, has introduced The Avalanche: three large pints of fresh gelato topped with fruit and served in a massive martini glass. The dessert is ideal for groups, but “if you can finish it, then you should be very proud of yourself,” says Adrian Roby, a store manager.

The gelato-eating experience so stuck with Karalis that, five years ago, the native Lithuanian — who swears she's Italian “in a past life” — opened her own store: Traviata Chocolate and Gelato Café in downtown Lisle.

It's challenging selling her treat in a down economy, she and other gelato store owners say, but as far as she's concerned, that's even more reason to try it.

“People still need things to enjoy,” Karalis says.

Become a gelato expert

What is gelato?

Gelato — Italian for “frozen” — is an ice cream-like treat that's made mostly of milk, sugar, cream and the flavorings of your choice. Options can range from raspberry to popcorn to bacon.

A little history

Though ancient Romans ate flavored ice, the tradition of gelato began during the Italian Renaissance. Famous artist and architect Bernardo Buontalenti was hired by the Medici family in the late 1500s to prepare a feast for the King of Spain. He presented a creamy frozen dessert that's now known as gelato.

Three differences between gelato and ice cream

1. Gelato is based on milk instead of cream.

This results in lower butterfat content. Because of less fat, gelato is not as solidly frozen as ice cream. That means it melts in your mouth faster; you'll taste gelato's full flavor immediately.

2. Gelato has higher density than ice cream.

No air is added in the making of gelato, unlike ice cream. This results in what gelato lovers say is a richer and creamier taste.

3. Gelato is served slightly softer than ice cream.

The taste is further enhanced as it melts in the mouth.

Source: icelollycafe.com

<b>Get your gelato fix</b>

You can find gelato in more and more places — including some specialty grocery stores. Here's a sampling of suburban spots:

<b>All Chocolate Kitchen: </b>33 S. Third St., Geneva, (630) 232-2395, <a href="http://www.allchocolatekitchen.com" target="_blank">allchocolatekitchen.com</a>

<b>Bellagio Café: </b>864 S. Milwaukee Ave., Libertyville, (847) 362-2332, <a href="http://www.bellagiocafe.net" target="_blank">bellagiocafe.net</a>

<b>Di Nico's Pizza and Gelato: </b>42 S. La Grange Road, La Grange, (708) 352-9800, <a href="http://www.dinicospizza.com" target="_blank">dinicospizza.com</a> <b>Divino: </b>821 E. Center St., Grayslake, (847) 223-2500, <a href="http://www.divinogelato.com" target="_blank">divinogelato.com</a> <b>Gelati of Naperville: </b>24 W. Jefferson, Naperville, (630) 848-7500

<b>Graham's 318: </b>318 S. Third St., Geneva, (630) 845-3180, <a href="http://www.grahamschocolate.com" target="_blank">grahamschocolate.com</a>

<b>Ice Lolly Café: </b>22W535 Butterfield Road, Glen Ellyn, (630) 793-9568, <a href="http://www.icelollycafe.com" target="_blank">icelollycafe.com</a>

<b>Il Giardino del Dolce: </b>131 S. First St., St. Charles, (630) 443-2497, <a href="http://www.ilgiardinodeldolce.com" target="_blank">ilgiardinodeldolce.com</a>

<b>Labriola Bakery Café: </b>3021 Butterfield Road, Oak Brook, (630) 574-2008, <a href="http://www.labriolacafe.com" target="_blank">labriolacafe.com</a> <b>Melt Gelato and Crepe Café: </b>122 Hawthorn Center, Vernon Hills, (847) 816-7101, <a href="http://www.meltgelato.com" target="_blank">meltgelato.com</a> <b>Traviata Chocolate and Gelato Café:</b> 1111 Burlington Ave., Ste. 101, Lisle, (630) 241-2233, <a href="http://www.traviataevents.com" target="_blank">traviataevents.com</a>

<b>Via Gelato and Café: </b>1853 Tower Drive, Glenview, (847) 729-7088, <a href="http://www.viagelato.com" target="_blank">viagelato.com</a>