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Tasso's in Naperville gives Greek fare a contemporary appeal

Inviting and cozy with a loft-like edge, Tasso's Modern Greek Cuisine a Naperville gem has the classics down pat, but it also offers much more.

Upon settling in to the warm, contemporary dining room with exposed brick and ductwork and oversized Aegean artwork we encountered a festive vibe, complete with jovial conversation, an enthusiastic waitstaff and, yes, enough “opas” to go around. But that's not to say what's going on here is ordinary; it's anything but. Kostas Anyfantis (formerly of Venus in Chicago's Greektown) is in the kitchen, and he's decided to shake things up a bit.

We kicked off our meal by mopping up two traditional cold starters refreshing tzatziki with cucumber and yogurt, as well as the garlicky skordalia with pita. And the flaming saganaki? It's good really good. Then again, it's hard to find fault with gooey, tangy cheese. Meanwhile, tender beef meatballs (keftedes) in a tomato-wine sauce proved satisfying and straightforward.

Beyond that, you'll encounter grilled, whole octopus finished with balsamic vinaigrette, basil-flecked grilled shrimp mingled with feta and ouzo-tomato sauce and meat-filled dolmades with yogurt sauce.

Already off to a good start, we tried a bowl of lemon-rice avgolemono. The chicken soup was comforting and bright, providing further proof a solid meal was in store.

There are several salads worth noting, from the mainstay village with red and yellow tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, Kalamata olives and feta to the Magdalini with spinach, walnuts, raisins, hard-boiled egg, cranberries and semisoft manouri cheese finished in balsamic syrup.

Among entrees, there's plenty for traditionalists a whole section, in fact, filled with individual, baked-to-order pastitsio and moussaka, both accented with house-made béchamel, as well as gyros and classic spanakopita with its layers of spinach, feta and phyllo dough. Pastas, including carbonara, provide a break from the Greek restaurant standbys, though we didn't gravitate toward those.

Instead, we opted for the braised lamb, finding it tender and its tomato sauce lively.

We also enjoyed the pork souvlaki. The skewered tenderloin, onion, zucchini and peppers were perfectly charred and nicely flavored. Oven-roasted lemon-oregano potatoes were the ideal pairing. Another side not to be missed is the dilled gigantes: braised lima beans in tomato sauce. Chicken and filet skewers are available, too, as are broiled lamb chops and Athenian-style chicken.

We wrapped up our meal with a wedge of sticky baklava, its layers saturated with sweetness.

From start to finish, ours was a satisfying meal, one in which boldly flavored, assertively seasoned fare all-but-transported us elsewhere.

A forward-thinking, almost entirely Greek wine list completes the experience and gives us one more reason to return.

Tasso's pork tenderloin souvlaki features charbroiled meat, onions, peppers and zucchini. Paul Michna
Oversized Aegean art brightens Tasso's Modern Greek Cuisine in Naperville. Paul Michna
Tasso's may lean toward the modern, but traditional saganaki won't disappoint. Paul Michna
Sleek contemporary decor helps Tasso's Modern Greek Cuisine live up to its name. Paul Michna
Tasso's Modern Greek Cuisine opened in Naperville last December. Paul Michna

Tasso's Modern Greek Cuisine

<p>220 S. Washington Ave., Naperville, (630) 355-8852, tassosgreekcuisine.com</p>

<p>Cuisine: Contemporary Greek</p>

<p>Setting: Lofty with exposed brick and a modern feel</p>

<p>Entrees: $11 to $27 </p>

<p>Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Saturday</p>